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Answer 1:

I am not sure how it works in holdem but in Omaha it’s when one of your hole cards in matched on the board in a detrimental fashion ( e.g. you have A 2 K Q in the pocket and the board is J 6 5 2. The deuce counterfeited you killing your low hand ).

Answer 2:

In hold’em, you have a strong hand and a card hits the board that beats you or gives you a push by completing someone else’s hand Example one. You’re up against a player w/KK and you have 98s, and the flop comes 985. Then a five hits on the turn, in effect “counterfeiting” your second pair. Example two. You have the same 98s and you’re up against a player with, say 78. the 567 on the flop gives you a straight, but a 9 hits and counterfeits your straight, giving the player with 78 the same straight.

Answer 3:

InOmaha, we usually refer to your low hand being ruined. If the river card matches one of your lowest two cards, you have also been counterfeited.  Example:  You hold KK32.  Flop is A-6-7. Turn is a 9.  you hold the nut-low.  River is a 2.  Now you have a really bad low which is beaten be 43, 53, 54 and is tied by A3, 23, 36, and 37.

Answer 1:

In a word, No! The pot has been raised. What do you hope to make with 7-2? The only safe flops for this hand with the whole field in are 777 or 222. The likelihood of these flops coming does not warrant even one more bet. Mike Caro doesn’t even recommend calling 1/2 of a bet (in the small blind) with the whole field in with these hopeless hands. If the hand was suited, I would call but proceed with extreme caution. You need to flop a flush or three of a kind to go beyond the flop. Even then, you may make a hand and lose a lot of chips. Your position is terrible and your hand is relatively weak.

Answer 2:

7-4, absolutely!  7-2 and 8-3 only if they are suited, otherwise you’ll need the entire field to make it profitable. I see average players routinely much 7-4, 6-8, or even 7-8 in the big blind to a raise, that’s weak poker. Your pot odds are way too good in the big blind to fold connected cards. Example, player raises in late position and all fold to you in big blind, you hold 4-6 off-suit. In most limit games you’ll be getting 3.5 to 1 on your call, in 2 and 3 chip blind games you get an even better price. A-K is no 3.5 to 1 favorite, and neither is most of the hands that would be raised, you’d only be a big dog against a big pair. Something to think about, the better the player who raised the less often you should call.  Call all weak players, or maniacs, you may be able to outplay the weak, and check and call the maniac when you flop anything. In multi-way pots you are getting a huge price to try ang get really lucky, just don’t marry a pair of 7′s when you flop it, proceed with caution.

Answer 3:

I assume you’re talking about when the first player in raises, a ton of people call cold, and the action is on you.  Getting 18:1, I would play 7-4 because it can make a straight, but not hands like 8-3 or 7-2 that have nothing going for them. I would also call with any 2 suited cards in that circumstance. This assumes I can outplay my opponents post-flop.

Answer 1:

Unfortunately, it seems as if the government-run casinos will NOT be spreading poker games! Only useless Caribbean Stud! Too bad, I was also anticipating a future of playing Hold’em and 7CS at casinos… The closest casino would probably be Casino Ray for you. Living on the south coast, I think I’m out of luck, unless I move out…

Answer 2:

The “challenge” becomes to create profiles that play the way you say you play to beat the default profiles. Although it is tedious to “program” the profiles, you can make them *much* tougher if you put in the effort. The beauties of the program are the elaborate profile parameters plus the ability to do simulations. Creating profiles will do more for your game, IMHO than “playing” it as a game.

Answer 3:

I looked at the Casino Ray home page, and it looks like it’s all about pot-limit which of course is a lot better than nothing (I hope the game standard isn’t too high though or I will be crushed for sure). I’ve thought about going toLas Vegasfor a weekend, but because of the airline ticket prices I’m afraid it will be a race against the clock to win back the ticket money. Meanwhile I’m trying to get some of my friends interested of the game, but it seems as though they rather lose their money at the Blackjacks tables in the pubs. I’ve heard about some underground poker clubs here inStockholm, but I think I would prefer a legitimate casino with their security arrangements.

1.)    Did I over play my hand and simply get lucky?

2.)    Was it a viable hand that was played correctly.

3.)    Could it have been played better.

Answer 1:

Personally I wouldn’t play Q8s, unless in the blinds, for exactly this reason. The best you’re hoping for (other than flopping a boat) is a Q high flush, and so even when you’ve made your hand you still can’t bet it confidently because an A or K high flush might be out there. I think I remember reading somewhere that a J high flush was the ‘average’ flush. Someone out there with a little more knowledge of math might be able to confirm that.

Answer 2:

The answer to the first question is “Absolutely not”. You had a great draw on the flop that almost demanded you raise from the button. And if you’re not going to raise on the turn when you hit your hand, why draw to it in the first place? “Was it a viable hand that was played correctly” was a little more questionable. But if you are going to play a hand like Q-8 suited, the time to do it would be in late position with a lot of limpers already in the pot–and given that those criteria are met (which they were) the right play might be to raise (which you did).  And once you raised pre-flop, you had to play it the way you did (especially considering that you thought your opponent was a habitual bluffer). A “better” play might have been to fold your hand pre-flop. As you realized, your hand easily could have been second-best and ended up
costing you a lot of bets. To play a hand like this pre-flop, you should know your opponents well enough to recognize when you’re up against a better flush and when you’re not and adjust your strategy accordingly. Very good low limit players can show a small profit playing this hand in this situation. Most low limit players are throwing money away every time they play this hand. IMHO.

Answer 3:

I think you played the hand very well. You can raise with just about anything on the button with eight callers in front of you. It’s a nice deception play, and you will have a well-disguised hand (which you did). Maybe somebody can do Turbo sim, but I’m guessing raising on the button with Q8s and 8 callers is a positive expectation play. Your raise on the flop was fine, as was your raise on the turn. Now if you were re-raised on the turn you might want to stop and think. Your bet on the river was automatic. You really couldn’t have played the hand any better.

1.) The player must play all of the chips that were in play in the must move game in the main game.

2.) The player only needs to put a minimum buy in on the table in the main game, unless the player has less than a buy in on the table, in which case that amount is sufficient.

Answer 1:

It should be rule no.1and here’s my thinking: If a player must move to the main game and he has less than the minimum buy-in he does not have to pony up a full buy-in for the main game. Why should he have to? He is already considered in the game and for that matter because of this he doesn’t have to post any blinds either. (In our place a new player has to either post the big blind or wait for the big blind to come around to him) Since he is already considered in the game the rule of table stakes now applies.  In table stakes you cannot put more money or chips on the table once a hand has started. It also means you cannot take any money off the table until you are
ready to quit the game. Hopefully now you can see why I think a player cannot go south with any cash or chips when in a must move situation.

Answer 2:

Foxwoods used to go by the rule of having to move all of your chips from the must move game to the main game. (Your Rule 1) However when I was there a month or so ago, they had switched to allow a player to take chips off the table when moving. Thus they have abandoned Rule 1. They had shifted to Rule 2. But Rule 1 makes more sense to me. It should be considered a continuation of the game: the player may join the game with less than the minimum if he has lost some and may join a board game without posting this way but must post otherwise.

Answer 3:

At Bay 101, rule 2 is used. However, a lot of players just change the extra racks to $100 chips, which can (and often do) come back into action.

Answer 1:

Many players prefer to remain silent, lest their tone of voice reveal something. Placing an upward-facing thumb above your “piece”, whether it be a $100 bill in a 30-60 game or a $25 chip in a $10-20 game, and moving the thumb aggressively upward, is generally taken to mean “raise”.

Answer 2:

Well after I posted the original message, I realized I had left out some key information, which is that many people with severe speech limitations over have cerebral palsy or similar disorders and don’t have sufficient control over their hand movements. This was the case with one of the players (I probably should have mentioned that), who struggled even to manage his chips and had to keep them in a rack to avoid knocking them all over the room. I also question whether a dealer accustomed to always hearing “raise” in this situation would be even looking for the hand gesture. This is not a knock on dealers, by the way. It’s just that they tend to go on autopilot after the umpteenth thousandth hand they’ve dealt, especially when they’re tired. I’ve had situations where an experienced but tired or distracted dealer has assumed a player acted a certain way based on the player’s cards rather than by looking at the actual bet or listening to the player.

Answer 3:

This is something of which I am familiar. I frequently play with a mask (to keep out cigarette smoke).  So I, effectively, can’t speak. When I play 5/10 with a $2.00 bring I try to make sure I have plenty of white chips in case I want to make my raise to $5.00 clear. But if, for some reason, I have found myself with only $5.00 red chips then I just gesture with my thumb
upwards until the dealer says “RAISE?” and I nod. There are some interesting things about this. First of all, unlike the mute people you refer to, I could always just lower my mask for a second and say raise.  I use to do that on those infrequent occasions that I wanted to raise the bring in and only had high denomination chips. But I found that there is an advantage of making an elaborate showing of the need to raise. It really helps me steal the antes (if I am so inclined). This especially worthwhile if I am at a higher stake game like 20/40 (when I use to play that). If there were a couple of callers and the rest folded to me I would look at my stack of only green chips, grab one hastily, hold it to the dealer and make my hand gestures rather frantically. This coupled with generally tight aggressive play before it usually won me the pot even if I had nothing.

Answer 1:

Actually since your bankroll/limit ratio will probably be less than it is now it will probably be much harder for you to exhibit the requisite patience. The last phrase in your sentence must be reduced from a “few times” to *no times*. If you can’t maintain against weak players for small stakes there’s no reason to expect you’re “ready” to move up. Several people recommend that you have a BR of $5k to comfortably play 10/20 and long years’ experience tell me that’s not far off in most cases. The swings are unbelievable in all these games for those who haven’t experienced them – and the runs of “bad luck” are longer than we might care to admit.

Answer 2:

Move up!!! Those lower limits suck. It’s like you aren’t even playing poker. You are just kind of sitting there waiting to catch cards.

Answer 3:

I think once you move up the players are more aggressive with the exception they have a clue. I had stopped playing holdem, but I think you may want to do more studying if you want to hold your own at higher limits.

Answer 1:

Is this a loose-aggressive player who would raise under the gun with hands like A-8, A-9, A-10, A-J, and K-Q? Or is this a loose-aggressive player who would raise under the gun with middle pairs and up, but not usually with an unpaired hand worse than A- Q? In the first case, I’d say raise. There’s a good chance you’ve got him dominated, and if he’s got a pair you’re usually only a slight underdog (assuming he’d raise with 7s and up, as you said). In the second case, I’d say fold. You’re rarely a favorite, usually a slight underdog, and sometimes a big underdog. Incidentally, most of the loose-aggressive players I’ve seen are of the first type, so knowing only that the player is loose-aggressive, my recommendation would be to raise.

Answer 2:

No need for isolating. Call. Either you are badly bead or a bit ahead. If ahead, you don’t mind callers with their JT/QJ/KQ etc. behind and you certainly don’t want A9/AT/AJ to fold. QQ/AK will call three cold anyway. As Abdul’s sims indicate, you can only profitably re-raise a sane early raiser with AKo/KK/AA. This guy is loose, as you say, so re-raising is an option, but the call is better.

Answer 3:

It’s seven-handed.  Call or raise. I’m not a big A-Q fan, so I call. If it were ten-handed, I might consider folding due to my poor position (eight players, including blinds to act behind me) and marginal hand. Even given the description of the raiser (loose/aggressive) there’s no law saying he can’t pick up a big hand. In addition, if I call and a more solid player re-raises behind me I may wind up being dominated by A-K. I think I’ve talked myself into folding.